So it took me about two months to do the embroidery and another month to get it all put together. It is after this painting although my proportions are not exactly the same. I wanted a smaller ruffle and taller collar which fits my face better. That may not have worked so well. I did it entirely by hand with silk embroidery floss and linen thread. Real seed pearls on manufactured bobbin lace and linen ground fabric.
Most of the supplies I got at Thistle Threads which centers on 17th century casket construction and the embroidery that is featured on the caskets. I buy most of my silk floss there because she also carries purl that I use frequently and she is particular about carrying historical colors. All of the trimmings are accurate as well although some are modern recreations with more modern materials to keep costs down. The bobbin lace trim was no longer available in gold and I like silver better anyway so I got all trimmings in silver but also got the trim for the sleeves in gold. The red and silver cording I got two years ago and used most of the yard I had available. All of the silk threads (Ovale and Trame) were in my stash. The linen thread I picked up at Pennsic last year, Wm Booth Draper 60/2.
The ruffle is done on a singe layer of salvage so I wouldn’t have to worry about hemming it and I got it to ruffle using the pulled thread method. The base is done on two layers, of folded linen, using stitches I couldn’t name because I learned to embroider as a child. I did it all freehand without drawing out anything other than the boxes so I would get the spacing correct. I did not embroider the back/middle section of the collar because it should never be seen when I’m wearing it. The entire ruffle is embroidered with random flowers that are particular to me. When I hit the halfway point I did the same (similar) flowers in reverse so one side is nearly a mirror image of the other. I tried to keep the back of the ruffle neat and tidy because it is not covered up.
I beaded the trim and then attached the trim to the ruffle and then ruffled it by pulling a thread, then I sewed the ruffle to the embroidered collar. I then cut out and hand sewed the base of the partlet and hemmed it all the way around excepting the front opening which was cut on the selvage. I attached the base to the collar, sewed trim all the way down both sides, and cut a piece of linen to cover the back. I also stiffened a piece of organza and sewed that into the middle of the collar as well (it probably didn’t need it but I wanted to be sure it stood up without issue.
Before I seamed up the back I tried it on and it fit well but I found it underwelming visually. I decided to add some extra trimming (based on what I saw in the painting and what supplies I had on hand.)
I am very pleased with how it turned out.
]]>]]>
The black and white portions are secured at the bottom of the front and “flip-up” to get into the dress – the back black is stitched at the collar. I will get more pictures here soon. It is very easy to get in and out of and that is the underskirt in my arm.
I finished the *entirely too much* hand sewing while camping at Lilies. I also finished the neckline on the chemise that goes with the blue kirtle (both of which are newly constructed) and I finally finished the purple/robin’s egg that I cut out at Mdln’s house like 15 years ago (I had cut out three dress that day and the other two were completed that same year.) So I think this is a first for me – all of the sewing UFOs have been completed. I also had some tunics for hubby delivered and then we purchased some additional to use for patterns. I have enough linen to make bunches more.
I taught two classes – actually one class twice and that went well. We entered our saint statues in an A&S competition for favorite saint in any medium – we won. That was cool because we got a pilgrimage rosary which will go in the shrine. We were also give little pilgrim badges for the dancing porkchop thing they have at Lilies. I met a lot of new people – and we were invited to camp with Herald’s Hill – we love them and will camp with them for every future Lilies we attend. They really were so welcoming and awesome and made the trip so enjoyable. They fed us and talked shrines with me and I think I’m finally going to be able to register my name and device.
]]>The main issue I’m having is that the wool is very stretchy and very light-weight. I’m fairly certain that without the belt I would be constantly trying to keep the top in place. I lined the top with linen which has very much helped with keeping the wool from getting all wonky but it isn’t stiff enough to give me a clear avenue for sewing closures. Both a plus and a minus is the fact that I cut the top out in one piece (no side seems) which has made the sides just as stretchy as the back and made fitting easier but I sacrificed structure. Now that I have the pictures I can make some adjustments before actually sewing everything together.
I will also say that the belt I used has far to big of a buckle and I will know better next time – This one is firmly sewn into place so I can’t redo it but because I didn’t have the problem last time, I think about it being an issue this time.
]]>So I spent hours last night debating what to do – I don’t have enough fabric in the right color to start over and I really didn’t have anything else in an acceptable color. So I went to work with a flashlight and my plastic grid and tried to fill-in the missing lines. I did not get it totally correct but it really doesn’t look too bad at this point. I will post a picture when it is complete as it is getting sewn onto a white smock so I can have just one underdress and one overdress. I reason that if the underdress is all sewn into one piece it will stay lined-up correctly. And I won’t die of heat stroke because it’s 17 layers of fabric goodness and I need to be able to wash it – in my standard fashion of throw-it-in-and-see-how-it-turns-out.
In other news – I ordered some fabrics from India and they have arrived. I can’t wait to try them out.
]]>