Category Archives: Historical


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The Swabian Gown

About four years ago I finally finished the Swabian gown. It is a rather heavy cotton velvet and, while the skirt fits great, I was afraid to attach the top to it because it fits rather tightly and I was afraid I’d never be able to get it off again once the top and bottom were attached. So I wore it once, for about an hour, and then I went back to camp to change into something else because I was so over heated. By the time the winter events rolled around it no longer fit me. So I was looking for something in the closet, tried it on, and as long as I had it on, I had some photos snapped of me in it.


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The Final Design

This is the dress I’ve decided to go with. A nice red dress which dates to 1520-1530. It has the same basic design of the GPM so I can use my existing pattern for it which will take considerably less time than coming up with a new pattern.


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Smocking

Last week I was looking for German Dress construction guidance and came across this Katafalk site which is incredible. Specifically I was looking at her dress diary but then I wandered to https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2010/02/20/lattice-smocking/ and based on the instructions realized that I had a plastic grid that was very similar in design. So following the basic instructions – I traced the grid onto the fabric and started sewing. I wish I would have been a bit more careful with my tracing because some of the lines don’t match up and so it caused some irregularities on the finished lattice but overall I’m delighted with the resulting technique. If I do it again: I will make it an integral part of the garment and I will roll the hem on before I start smocking – the current piece is on the salvage and just a scrap of fabric so I will probably have to edge it with trim to get it to look right.

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Hand Sewing

I am currently in the middle of three hand-sewing projects:

  • Adding pearls to the hairnet I completed two months ago. It’s not going too bad but it seems like I can only add about 8-10 pearls at a sitting. At this rate it will get finished in a few years.
  • Smocking for the front of a tunic – I was looking for German construction instructions and found this lattice smocking. When I read the directions it occurred to me that I own a plastic stencil that looked very similar to the grid design and I had to know if it would work. So I traced the stencil and, sure enough, I got the desired result – not nearly as clean and nice looking but pretty close. It should take a few more hours of sewing and that will be complete.
  • Finally the German skirt.

The German skirt is coming along nicely.

First I cut out three panels of 60inch wide fabric and sewed those together (I had cut out four but only used three) and then I added pleater tape and pulled it to size and am now finished hand sewing it to a canvas band which will then get sewn to a belt so that the weight of the dress sits on the hips rather than my shoulders. If the smocking has taught me anything it’s that I really don’t have the time or patience for pleating without the use of tape. However – I should have stuck with the original plan to pleat the linen in with the skirt – in the end I decided that I was afraid that if they were pleated together then they would not flow as nicely and it would be a pain in the butt to try to clean. It is a very lightweight linen though so I will put it on a standard waistband which shouldn’t be too difficult.

Once the skirt is stitched up (which should be in the next day or two) then it can be hung so I can hem it next week. In the mean time I can get started on the top of the dress and hopefully my fabric purchase should be here by then. I’m excited to see if this gold fabric I ordered will work!


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Analyse the Old

This is the Great Pearl Monster, GPM for short, and I’m going to use it as the foundation for the design for the new dress. So what I liked about GPM:

  • It’s all in one piece which is so convenient and once its on there is no fuss and actually comfortable.
  •  The belt sewn into the waistband took all the pressure off the shoulders and put it on the waist.
  • One giant pocket
  • I always got so many compliments on it!

And what I didn’t like about the GPM:

  • The pearls made it so heavy. Also they took a lot of time to sew on (I’ve only had to make two small repairs so they are really sewn on well!)
  • The sleeves are very confining and I don’t want anything that tight again. Also afraid to carry things because of pearls.
  • The unattached bottom of the center section sometime rides up.
  • The belt broke.

There’s one A&S question I hate = If you had to do it all over again what would you do differently? So what am I going to do differently when I remake this dress?

  • Wool lined with linen. The last one was trigger (heavy cotton with some stretch) and while it was comfortable I suspect wool will be more comfortable.
  • Self lined skirt – the last one wasn’t lined but I always wear a skirt under it. I’m just going to pleat the wool with the linen.
  • Get a belt that is actual leather – the last one was pretty wore out when I sewed it in and now I’m going to try replacing it.
  • Big voluminous sleeves – not so big I can’t work but big enough that they will never be tight.

So I took a good look at how I made the last one (and I took some pictures) and I’m ready to dig into this project.

 


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Clothes

Anna of Rožmitál by Jacob Seisenegger,1529

I decided I need some clothes because nothing fits right now. I found this dress which really appears to be two versions of the same basic dress so this is the one I’m going to go with. I’d like to be able to just throw it over my head and go so it won’t be very tight. Now to figure out those sleeves.


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So Busy Again

So I’ve been working full-time for almost a year now. I’m getting ragged because there are still just as many things I want to accomplish but almost no time in which to do so.

And then to make everything more exciting we decided to move to another state. So we found a house we liked, put in an offer, jumped through the bank hoops, and now own a second home. We are currently in the process of moving to the new home. Meanwhile I am still working fulltime.

But I still want time to ART. I found an event that I think is perfect for me – The First Known World Fiber Arts Symposium in Ames, Iowa next month. So I now have the drive I need to get the flower directions written. About time right? LOL

Aside from all of that, I can show photos that I can’t put on the website. And in some strange way that sort of makes up for the fact that I’m not going to be able to see the exhibit in Lueven http://www.utopialeuven.be/en/utopia-different-perspective and see the refurbished gardens. I guess there will be time to see everything when I stop working in a couple of years.

So I should probably get moving on preparing the class.


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Visiting The Ancestral Homeland

I’m not a fan of alarm clocks, most especially while on vacation. But I did my duty and dragged myself in and out of the shower and got in the car when I was supposed to. We arrived in Koblintz and picked up my mother.

Mom had been extremely busy while not in my care. She and Christine did lots of chatting and stamping and at some point mom told Christine the whole Hershbroich story (where they went to the right town in the wrong district) and so Christine called someone who was not very believing of mom’s story. Then Christine called the mayor of the town.

Who we now know is related to us. We drove an hour and a half to the town of Herschbroich which is nestled in the same hill/mountains that we are currently staying in. The population is about 280 people. The town is one of three towns in the middle of some large and very famous racetrack. Mom and the mayor got all geeky about family history and ship logs and emigration reports. Anyway – I have some stories for history buffs that I found interesting.

Herschbroich Germany used to be located on both sides of the little river that runs through the valley except the houses of the far side of the river all burned down 6 or 7 times so that is all field now. In 1600 they built the church on this side of the river. They know there had been a church there as far back as the 1200s because there was a complaint that the town didn’t pay their church tax for two years in a row. Everybody could inherit land – even the girls. But everybody got equal shares of the fields the buildings the woods. So at this point everybody owns little plots of land all here and there. But in order to leave, for America or something, you had to apply and pay a fee and you could never come back. So what the young men would do is leave with the trade carts, in effect they would sneak out of town and then leave for America through ports in France or London and if everything went well they would write home and have the lands sold and the money sent to them. If things did not go well then they could come back.

The theory as to why our relative didn’t want to talk to us is because rumor has it that when my ancestors wrote back to have everything sold and the money sent to them – not everything was sold and the part of the family that stayed behind kept some of the land and now they are afraid we came to get our part of the land back from them. Mind you that all this happened back in 1800.

The town used to have copper mines – they mine shafts were all named after the daughters of the owner.

After the protestant reformation swept through Poland after WWI there were all kinds of religious things laying in the streets. Some of the troops in Bern were on their way home when they found a large altar front laying in the street and they brought it all the way home where it is in the church to this day. It is a little too ornate for the village and it looks to be from the mid 1600.

Mostly I think it was a great day.

Last night I was hammering out details for the trip when I found that one of the museums was restoring some of the shrines – a project that started last month and is projected to take two years. There will be some international exhibit at the end of it all. I wrote to the lead restorer but have not had any word back. I would very dearly like to interview her while I’m still in a position to do so.

Tomorrow I go to France for the first time in my life! Pretty exciting stuff.